Taking Care Of Your Horses Hooves
The condition of a horse's hooves and coat are a reflection of his good health. Horses are like people, some have better hooves than others, but there are things you can do to help the hoof along. It is best to have them trimmed and shod every six to eight weeks. You must pick your horses feet before and after riding him. Pick up his foot and working from heel to toe, take your hoof pick and clean out the dirt and debris from the hoof and shoe being careful of the soft frog. Your stable floor should be kept as dry as possible allowing for proper drainage so that the animal won't be standing in a wet stall or paddock. Standing in a wet environment for too long will cause the hoof to dry and crack.
The Hoof wall is an important element in the control of the moisture in the hoof. Wash off the foot carefully with a wet hoof brush. In a dry climate this will keep in the hoof moistureized. In damp wet climates use hoof oil on the underside of the foot to keep it dryer and stop the hooves from becoming weak.
Diet is important to a horses foot health. Low protein or an unbalanced diet will cause unhealthy horses and hooves. Supplements may be necessary to add to your horses diet. Some horses, when put on a diet with levels of biotin and methionine, will show improved hoof health. Biotin is a vitamin that promotes the health and growth of keratin and other connective tissue. Methionine is an emino acid that is essential for the growth of healthy hooves. Products high in zinc and copper also promote also helps the hoof remain healthy.
It is also important to remember that unless you are riding your horse frequently or in rough terrain, there is no need to have shoes put on. Many horse do just fine with no shoes at all, and in many cases horses that have had shoes on for long periods of time can take a break from them for a month just to rest the hoof. It can take up to a year for healthy tissue to reach the bottom of the hoof, therefore any supplements may take weeks or months to show any results on the hoof.
Basic Horse Knowlege
The size and strength, of horses can be misunderstood by many people who know nothing about them. Unless you are around horses on a regular basis, you will not know how they act or the safety issues involved with being close to a horse. What are the important things to look for in communicating with your horse?
Since horses cannot learn how to understand human behavior, we as owners must learn the their world instead. Horses are herd animals, so their instinct is to run from danger to their herd for protection. A horse can learn however to ignore their instincts to follow directions with a good trainer. Trust is the key. Spend time with your horse and always react appropriately to their behavior.
Movements, body position and calls are all forms of communication with horse. Observe your horse for the way they communicate with each other and to humans. The ears of a horse always point in the direction that he is paying attention to. If you are riding him, you want one ear point at you. If his ears are pinned back it means he is afraid or angry. Ears that move front and back continuously indicates uncertainty.
A horses tail is also a way to understand what your horse is thinking. A high tail means excitement in a horse while a tail that is flattened and between their legs means fear. A tail that is swishing about is a sign of irritation and annoyance.
A wrinkled nose can mean annoyance. When a horse bares his teeth with an open mouth, it means he's about to bite. A long nose and tight mouth show anxiety and fear as when they are being taught something. After the stress is over, his mouth softens and he'll began to chew. A long nose with a slightly open mouth shows that the horse wants to be groomed and also to groom in return too.
We often don't want to understand other forms of communication, but if we are to have a horse or any animal , then we need to at least try to learn ways to improve how we interact with each other. Trust and positive interaction is the key.
Western Chaps And Their History
This article is to help you understand more about the history of the Western Chap The Chap is an invention of horse riders to help them be more protected when doing the work of a cowboy. There are names for the cut and style of chaps according to the usage and the time period you are talking about.
The first type of Chaperajos were the Armas. Chaperajos or Chaps as we know them, were invented by the Spanish who settled Mexico. They were two large pieces of leather tied to the saddle. These large pieces were draped across the riders legs while riding through brush, otherwise they were laid under the riders legs. These were made from heavy buffalo hide or thick cowhide.
Vaqueros wore the first leather breaches called Armitas in the early 1800's. These chaps were made from wild animal hides, calfskin, deer, lion and goat. They were attached to a belt t and wrapped around the riders legs with leather bindings.
The early Texas cowboys designed the first full length complete leather britches called Shotguns, because the pants had no seat and resembled a double-barrel shotgun. The plainer chaps that had no fringe or concho's were called Closed Legs. Most of the modern shotguns are made with zippers for a tighter more tailored fit.
The Batwing chap were some of the most decorated of all the chaps. With the coming of the Wild West Shows and rodeos the contests needed a little flare to their outfits. These chaps had wide leather wings that flapped around freely which is why they called them Batwing. The first style was the step-into type, then later they were changed to the open legged style that buckled or snapped into place.
A few years later the Angoras or Woollies came in to being. The northern climates used them for the warmth and the water repellent qualities of the Woollies. They were made of mountain lion, leopard, angora goats, bear, buffalo, dog and even seal with the fur left on.
Chinks, are similar to chaps, but shorter, typically hitting the rider just below the knee but above the ankle. The working cowboy or rodeo cowboy like these chaps for their ease of movement as they are shorter. They are secured by snaps, zippers, buckles or other forms of fasteners stopping above the back of the knee. The fringe on chinks are longer than regular chaps, giving them the appearance of being longer than they are.
An Education On The Horse Bit
A rider depends on the
bit to keep control over his horse in whatever his job is, be it real cowboy work or in the show ring. The horse has to like his bit and not work against it. Lets go over all the equipment that goes with the bit and the different choices to make on mouthpieces.
*Purchase - The purchase is a part of the bit located above the mouthpiece. A shorter purchase will make the bit act quicker where a longer purchase will make him act slower.
*Shank - Located below the mouthpiece it gives you leverage on the bit. In this case, the shorter the shank, the less control, and the longer the shank the MORE control.
*Cheeks - The cheeks are the sides of the bit and includes both the "purchase" and the "shank".
*Mouthpiece - The mouthpiece is part of the bit that goes in the horse's mouth.
Bars are the part of the mouthpiece that rests on the horse's bars, which is the gums behind a horses teeth. The
Port is the piece that rests on the tongue. They come in high, medium and low. The closer together the bars, the more severe and the wider apart they are the less severe. A
Mullen Relief is a forward curve to the mouthpiece and gives even pressure across the mouth.
The
Snaffle is one of the most common mouthpieces. It is broken in the middle. and is very comfortable to the horse. The
Double Twisted Wire Snaffle is made of two small snaffles that are "off-center from each other. The
Three-piece Snaffle is broken in two places which allows it to work on different places on the bars than the regular snaffle. The
Chain Mouthpiece works on the corners of the mouth but do now work on the bars as a snaffle would. Any mouthpiece that is not broken is called a
Solid Mouthpiece.
*Curb Bit - A curb mouthpiece places a rotation in the mouth pulling downward and then pulling upward on the curb chain. This bit is a severe bit meant to be used for training and not necessary for trail riding.
*Metal In Mouthpieces - Copper is a common metal used on mouthpieces as it makes the horses mouth salivate which allows their mouths to stay soft. Sweet Iron is a material that is intended to rust and gives off a somewhat sweet taste to the horse. Stainless Steel is another.
Hopefully the above information will give you some idea as to which Mouthpiece would be best for your use and will help when you go to a tack store looking for that perfect fit of horse and rider.
Basic Horse Tack Supplies
The Definition of "Horse Tack" is all the equipment that you need as the owner of a horse. Riding a horse and properly caring for a horse requires certain equipment to adequately take care of their needs. Bridles, saddle pads, saddles, bits, bridles, lead ropes, halters stirrup leathers and whips are just a few of the supplies you will need. You will need to take a look at your horse's activities and needs to evaluate what pieces of tack you should buy.
Your first time to the tack store you will have to spend a good amount of money if you are starting from scratch. But, if you take good care of all your tack it will last for several years. Also, getting a good quality saddle and bridle will last you forever if you keep it clean and polished up after every use. The same goes with all your your equipment.
The first thing you will need for your horse is a halter. The halter fits over the horses nose and head to allow you to control the horse. Next will be the Lead Rope. Lead ropes are especially made for horses and they have a very long clasp and are woven tightly for strength. It is probably the single most used piece of tack. Next comes the saddle. There are so many options on saddles it will make your head spin, so in basic terms, a good all around saddle is best. Take your horses measurements around the girth and length of his back to help you decide what size you will need. Under the saddle goes the saddle pad or blanket. The last basic piece of equipment is the bridle. The bridle is used to control the horse while riding and has the bit and the reins attached to it. You will have to experiment on which bits to use with your particular horse. Some horses have sensitive mouths so you must choose a bit that is very easy on the mouth. Until you ride your horse a while you won't know exactly which to choose at first so just pick a mid-range bit to begin. Most stores that sell saddles and other tack will have a specialist there that can help you purchase all of these items and give you some good advice as to which ones are a good "first-time" choice. Whatever you do, enjoy.
The Manufactured Production Saddle
What are the differences between a "ready-made" saddle and a "custom made" saddle and which saddle is better? Whether or not one or the other is better for your needs is up to you. We can give you a guide on the manufactured saddle and you can choose for yourself.
A manufactured saddle is machine-made in an assembly-line process with each worker down the line responsible for his part or parts of the process of assembly. The use of machines and semi-skilled employees reduces the cost of the building of the saddle. It seems likely that a single person who is doing the same pieces of the operation over and over would develope a certain amount of skill in that particular area and become an expert at that step. In that reguard, the workmanship could be very good.
Manufactured saddles must build a saddle for a variety of people levels of income. Therefore, they will have a high end saddle using higher quality materials and more personal details. Like-wise a low-end saddle will be made available which costs less for those who can't pay the high end prices. Certain brands are known for their quality and workmanship. Saddles like the McCall Saddle, which is a manufacured rig, approaches the quality of a fine custom saddle.
Some of the top manufactures that are quality production saddles are McCall, Crates, Martin, Circle Y, Billy Cook, Courts and Saddle Barn. Of course with todays market brand alone will not tell the entire story and can't be totally relied upon. When ownerships change hands, you can't know if the quality will or has stayed the same.
Here are a few things that you will find with low end saddles: Plasitc Trees with cheap covering, low-grade leather, cheap hardware, staples in place of nails and screws, shoddy stitching. You get what you pay for. Low price will almost always equate to a lower grade of saddle.
A good compromise would be a custom saddlemaker that has their own line of "production" type saddles which use some machinery for parts of the contruction, but still incorporate high quality materials and skilled craftsman for assembly. These are priced much lower than the custom, high end saddles in a lower price range.
The best thing to do is visit saddle shops and talk to experts about the different saddles. Look at the different brands closely and you will start being able to see the the differences in quality.
The Arabian Horse
When one mentions the Arabian Horse one thinks of beauty, courage, endurance and above all things romance. The Arabian head is small with large expressive eyes, large nostrils and tiny muzzle. They run with tail held high and beautiful proud arched necks. They can come in many colors such as grey, chestnut, bay, roan, brown, and occasionally black. Most stand between 14.1 and 15.2 hands with a weight of around eight-hundred to one-thousand pounds as adults.
The Arabian breed is the oldest of all the light breeds and is the foundation stock for other breeds of horses also. He is different because he is not the result of selective breeding as some other breeds are but rather is a breed that has been recognized for thousands of years and has been kept at its purest form as much as possible.
The Arabian breed excels at a wide variety of activities popular today. They are excellent on the trail as well as in the show ring. There is no show event that the Arabian does not stand out in and as an endurance horse there is no better. Racing has become a very popular event with Arabians as well.There are more Arabian horses living in the United States than all the other countries in the world combined. That is a huge benefit to those looking for that special horse. You can find a huge selection of Arabians that will be of the best quality to purchase.
The Arabian horse in "show" is a rare thing to behold. Their tack is fine and small and the saddles are beautiful with lots of shine and glitter. The riders are also adorned in fancy costumes with lace and shiny sequines making the show ring a buz with glitter and beautiful prancing horses.
Some think that the Arabians are the most beautiful of all the riding breeds, but it is important to remember that he is not just a pretty horse. They are probably one of the best all around family horse, show horse, endurance horse and certainly a major competitor in sporting and show events.
Making The Western Saddle
There are two basic production techniques when it comes to saddles. A "Handmade" or "Machine Made"
saddle or a "Custom" or "Mass Produced" saddle. Here are some of the most common saddle production choices:
A "Handmade Production Saddle" is one that has been made by hand to general specifications for the general public. These are, for the most part, well made saddles that can be as high quality as a custom saddle. It is sold right off the "rack". They run at a more affordable price and buy one of these is a way to get good saddle at a more reasonable price.
The "Handmade Custom
Saddle" is one that has been made by hand with a specific buyer who has given individual choices for his saddle. A saddle-maker can do the entire thing by hand or the minimal use of a sewing machine/stitcher may be used for some parts. The customer will choose all the features and the saddle is built to the customer's measurements. It is customary for an individual saddle-maker to make a custom saddle from start to finish although some makers have others they collaborate with or have an apprentice working on the minor items.
The "Semi-Custom Saddle" is a production saddle where a few of the features and trimmings are picked by the customer. Usually, the customer chooses the basic model and then makes his own changes. Those selections can be stirrup type, cantle height, or carving pattern. Any combination of hand and machine techniques can be used with this type of saddle.
The "Factory Saddle" or "Machine Made Production Saddle" has been made completely with machine techniques, although some hand-work may be involved with the higher end production saddles. This saddle is made with general specifications and no ability for the customer to customize any features. In general, a company will take the most popular attributes and put them all together so as to please a wide variety of riders.
The Flexible Tree Saddle
Flexible Tree Saddles are a bit controversial but are becoming very popular, especially for barrel racers. It has a hard skeletal structure shaped out of material that flexes to accommodate the movement of the horse and rider. This forward thinking design allows the horse greater freedom, puts less force on his pressure points, and flexes to fit during walking or loping.
The design of the tree has a traditional look and feel while remaining extremely flexible. The challenge of creating a flexible saddletree was two-fold. The first challenge was to make a tree bar that would conform to the horses back. There were many experiments done with several types of material, achieved by bonding high-density polyethylene plastic and leather together to give it flexibility while retaining structural integrity. A typical saddle seat is created by taking a preformed seat, usually made of fiberglass or metal, and mounting it on to the saddle tree. The material for the seat had to be flexible, have shape-holding characteristics for the seat's foundation, and memory to bring the saddle back to it's original position. In the end, heat tempered spring steel was the answer.
The theory behind trying to invent a flexible tree is that, if the bar can adjust to the confirmation of any horse, it significantly widens the range of horses that will fit any particular saddle tree design. The tree will flow and move with the horse instead of pushing against him.
The new experimental materials used for this tree bar make the tree thinner and lighter. 1/2" neoprene rubber was incorporated in the bottom layer of the skirt rather than an additional layer of leather, which enhances the comfort to the horse while providing close contact to the horse and less weight to the saddle. The prediction is that the flex-tree will provide three times more closeness to the horse while providing even distribution of weight over the back of the horse.
Although this saddle is controversal, time and effort are being put in to this rig to make it a common saddle pick. Only time will tell if they can accomplish this.
The Rigging of The Western Saddle
The cowboy had a "working" saddle that did a little of everything on the ranch such as gathering cattle, rescuing cattle, breaking horses, etc. Different saddle types require different "rigging" for each specific use. The term "rigging" is used to refer to how the cinch strap attaches to the saddle to hold the saddle in place. The rigging hardware can be done with several different options. O-rings, D-rings or plates.The two types of rigging are conventional "in tree" rigging and "in-skirt" rigging. Conventional rigging places the bulk of the cinch strap under the rider's leg. With it, the rigging hardware is built directly onto the saddle skirt, either built directly on the skirt or for extra security, built "in" the skirt, where the rigging is attached to an extra metal plate between two layers of leather on the skirt. The next differences in rigging are the "Single" or "Double" styles. In Single rigging the flank strap is not used. Instead, the rigging hugs the saddle toward a center point. Double rigging includes both the cinch and the flank strap. The double rigging is especially necessary with roping or any other event that may cause the saddle to want to tilt upwards. Rigging position is dependant on what the saddle is being used for. Three-way rigging allows you the option of choosing a full double rig; 7/8 double rig; or 3/4 double rig. Rigging that sits under the mid-section of the saddle is called a "centerfire" rigging. Each position toward the horn is given a defferent measurement: 5/8, 3/4, or 7/8.
Breaking Down The Western Saddle
Lets take a look at the saddle and all the various parts that make up its construction to better evaluate fit.
The Tree:
Today we see trees made up of different materials depending on the use. By far the best tree to go for is the "bull-hide covered wood" tree. This tree is made out of Ponderosa Pine with one or two layers of wet Bull-hide or rawhide stretched over it. As the hide dries, it shrinks forming a vice-like covering. This makes for a very resilient and strong tree, but at the same time has an innate element of "give" to it. Inferior trees are often covered with canvas or cheesecloth or poorer quality hides. These and the fiberglass or plastic trees are not suitable for heavy ranch work but rather light pleasure use.
Bars:
Bars rest along the sides of the horse's spine. The size, shape and angle of these bars are what determine the kind of fit. The three basic fitting trees are the Quarterhorse, which has the longest, widest bars will usually accommodate most "stock type" quarter horses; Semi-Quarter horse, which has narrower bars for the Thoroughbred type horse; and the Arabian Tree, which has shorter bars, fitted for a shorter backed Arabian type horse. The tree should fit smoothly along the length of the horses back and evenly distribute the weight of the rider and saddle.
Swell/Fork:
The swell/Fork is also called the Pommel. Gives shape and definition to the front of the saddle. An "A-Fork" is just as it's name says; the front of the saddle looks like and "A" as it rises from the bars to the horn. Other fork styles are somewhat broader in appearance, with more swell to the fork. The support you feel is based on how much swell is built in.
Gullet:
The Gullet is the part of the saddle under the swell of the saddle that is positioned over the withers. You should be able to place four fingers between it and the horse. The design of the swell/fork, as well as the angle of the bars, help to determine the width and height of the saddle gullet. The saddle must clear the withers of the horse or the horse will become sore quickly.
Horn:
The horn can be tall or short, thick or thin, and have a large horn cap or small one. The angle used in attaching a horn to a tree also varies. The horn is always determined by its intended use.
Cantle:
The cantle is the piece that swells up behind the seat of the saddle. "High-backed saddle" refers to the cantle and cantle binder. Higher is snugger than a lower cantle simply because it offers a higher support on the riders back. When quick dismounts are needed, a lower cantle gives more flexibility.
The Roping Saddle
Roping is a fast-paced sport that requires a well-trained horse and rider who can rope a steer with a lasso while riding at high speeds. Some would argue that the horse is the more important of the team. A roping saddle has an extra-thick horn to allow for tying the lasso around after securing a calf. This is called dallying. The Horse must quickly catch up to the running calf and get the rider in position to rope it. After the calf is roped, the horse must maintain tension on the rope as the cowboy dismounts, throws the calf down and ties three of his legs off. The tie must remain secure and the horse must keep tension the entire time to make sure the calf doesn't escape.
All rodeo events are tough, rugged sports that require a quality saddle to compete. The roping saddle is no different. There are subtle changes in all events that require slight modifications in the basic design of the saddle. The seat of a roping saddle is made deep and usually is greatly padded with suede covering for added grip. The fenders are hung in a position to ensure that the rider can remain upright and well-balanced while preparing to rope. The horns and trees are extra strong so as to take the fierce pull of a steer who is trying to get away. The rigging on the roper saddle must be one that pulls off the top of the trees bar and has great strength. The swells of the saddle are kept reasonably low so as to keep the leverage of the rope on the horn to a minimum.
There are many wonderful brands of roping saddles available on the market. Some of the most well known are Billy Cook , Walt Woodard roper, Simco, SaddleKing, Ammerman, Tex Tan and many more.
Sharing Meals With Your Dog
Sometimes we slip and share some of our dinner with our dogs on purpose; other times by accident. Some food we eat can be good and nutritious for dogs, but other food can be very dangerous. It's very important to learn and understand what your dog should and should not eat. Below we have made a list of some common foods that are good for dogs and some that are dangerous for dogs. This is not meant to be a comprehensive list. You should always consult your veterinarian prior to feeding your dog any new types of food.
Good Foods
-Cheese: Cheese is generally a safe and yummy treat for dogs, but be careful not to overdue.
-Peanut Butter: Peanut butter is a good, safe treat for your dog in moderation. It's also very easy to disguise a pill with Peanut butter on it when you need to medicate your dog.
-Carrots: Raw carrots are very healthy for dogs. Just make sure that they are chewing it thoroughly to prevent choking and that your dog doesn't fill up too much and refuse a well balanced diet.
-Popcorn: Popcorn is another good treat, as long as you don't give it too much. It's very high in fiber. The safest kind is the air-popped variety, without any preservatives.
Dangerous Foods
-Chocolate: It might taste good, but chocolate contains theo bromise, which is potentially fatal for your pet. It's not a good idea to feed your dog any amount of chocolate at all. If it doesn't kill him, chocolate will certainly cause restlessness and stomac problems.
-Nuts: Some nuts can cause severe muscle problems that may lead to paralysis, such as macadamia nuts. It is best to stay away from nuts or nut products, with the exception of peanut butter.
-Bones: Cooked bones from roasts or your Thanksgiving dinner might seem like a good thing to give your dog, however, they can splinter an the sharp edges that splinter off can puncture a dog's insides and cause significant problems.
-Grapes and Raisins: Though these foods are healthy to humans and seem yummy, they an cause acute renal failure in dogs.
-Onions and garlic: These foods contain thiosulphate which is toxic for your dog.
In addition, you must be careful not to leave these foods where you dog can get to them. Keep a close watch on your children who are eating grapes and raisins when dogs are around. Also make sure desserts are well out of reach from your dog.
Rule of thumb is if a food is in question, choose not to give the food. Always be on the cautious side and stay way from giving your dog regular human food. Your dog gets all the nutrition he or she needs from their redular dog food. Next time you think about sharing your meal or snack with your dog, be sure that you are giving the dog food that he or she can enjoy safely.
Horse Saddle Tack
The Western Saddle is used for "western riding" and is the saddle used on working horses on cattle ranches throughout the United States and especially in the west. The Western Saddle was designed to allow the cowboy comfort and security during long hours of work herding cattle in a time when that was their livelihood.We give credit to the Spanish vaqueros for the design of the Western Saddle. They were the early horse trainers and cattle barrens of the Southwest and Mexico. The saddle "horn" was added to the saddle after combining two styles together. The horn allowed the vaqueros to control the cattle with the use of a rope that could be quickly tied to the horn.There are a few variations on the western saddle design such as those used in bronc riding and endurance riding which have no horn. The historical saddle was made for comfort and to be ridden for many hours every day, a working tool for the cowboy. A beginner may get the impression that the horn is to provide a more secure seat, but this is misleading as the horn is not meant to be a handle for the cowboy to hang on to. Seat, high cantle and heavy stirrups are meant to be all independent of each other in a control issue.* "Equitation": A show saddle with an especially deep seat to keep the rider in place.* Show: Saddle is characterized by the addition of leather and tooling with lots of silver decorations. Can be based on roping, cutting, pleasure etc. * Trail: A comfort saddle for the rider as well as the horse. Deep padded seat for long slower rides.* Endurance: Lighter weight saddle often without a horn built in. The tree spreads the riders weight out over a large area of the horses back. Many times the stirrups are rigged slightly forward for fast dismount.* Barrel Racing: Lightweight with wide swells and high cantle allowing rider quick dismounts.* Cutting: Has a deep seat and wide swells for control in quick turns and fast sprints.* Roping: Heavy, sturdy saddle with a thicker horn for securing a rope. Low cantle and a slick fork that allows the rider to dismount quickly when needed.The romance of the Western Saddle makes it a favorite among the people of America where it was refined and expanded in to a much larger picture than just for working cattle.
All About The Cutting Saddle
In a cutting competition the rider works in an arena with his horse and separates one cow from the herd. You are judged by the agility and athleticism of the horse in following the cunning maneuvers of a steer that is trying to get back to his herd. A well made saddle is a necessity not a luxury in this event.To this end, the cutting saddle is made to correctly position the rider as the horse makes stunningly quick movements. The rider must stay in perfect balance while his horse does his job. Falling off is not an option.The cutting saddle seat is flat with a high straight pommel to allow the rider to have close contact with the horse while trying to stay in a relaxed position. If the rider is allowed to slide forward, he will become off-balance. The rider does not use his legs in the competition to cue the horse, so he pushes the free-swinging fenders forward for balance and to keep leg contact off the horse. The horse is allowed to follow the cow at his discretion.Stirrups on a cutting saddle are usually narrow oxbow style and are ridden snug against the boot heel.The horn on a cutting rig is tall and thin to allow a tight hold for the rider as the horse makes unanticipated moves back and forth following the calf. The hold is important for security and to help the rider keep out of the horse's way.The bridle is something that needs to be considered also in a cutting competition. A leather headstall is preferred. Brow-band, split ear or slot ear designs are the options. A bit made from "sweet steal" is used to make a "wet mouth" as is preferred. A curb chain can be either leather or a combination of leather and chain that will fit the horses temperament. Lastly, a custom set of split reins made of heavy harness leather. Different sizes and lengths are used to fit the riders hands for comfort.Leather chaps are not required, but they do help to protect the clothing and help the rider get a snug fit in the saddle. They are available in sizes or custom fits.
The Workings of the Reining Saddle
The reining event has become popular in the horse industry. The reining saddle is designed to keep the horse's balance and agility and give him freedom of movement. Reining is an event where winning a single championship at a national competition can make a horse and trainer on a level with the fastest race-horse in the Kentucky derby.Reining is a judged event that is designed to show the athletic ability of a well bred ranch horse. You are to run several patterns such as small, slow circles, large, fast circles, flying lead changes, roll backs over the hocks, 360 degree spins and fast sliding stops. The saddle each rider uses must not impede the horse and the rider must be placed in proper balance while the horse is galloping while doing lighting fast, precise moves. The name of the game is close contact with the horse. A reining saddle is usually made with cut-outs in the skirt; the bars of the tree are trimmed down where the rider sits ; seat is made narrower giving the rider even more contact with the horse. This makes more stability in the stops and spins. A way to make the riders legs more free-moving and improve balance, the fenders are hung from the center of the tree rather than forward. The rigging is then dropped in order for the latigo straps to lie flat against the horse's sides. In this way the fenders don't get caught in the equipment. The horn is narrow and medium in height so that it doesn't interfere with the rider's hands yet allows light use.
A well-built reining saddle will sit balanced and level on the horse's back, evenly distributing the rider's weight. Every detail on the reining saddle lends itself to fined tuned stability and performance, and comfort. This rig is an event specific piece of equipment that must sustain long, effortless slides and fast heart-stopping spins. Competitors range in age, and are from a variety of backgrounds. Competitions can be found all over the world and the horses can be of any breed, sex, color or size. All riders must wear appropriate western clothing while performing their patterns. And the saddles must be perfect.The required movements are as follows:*Walk-In
*Stops
*Circles
*Spins
*Rollbacks
*Circles
*Hesitate
*Run-downs and Run-arounds
The Barrel Racing Saddle
Beginning a career in barrel racing is a great challenge for young as well as older horse riders. Getting the right saddle and tack is just the first step. As with all saddles, finding a good balance between quality, price and style requires research.
A barrell racing saddle is distinguished by it's size and weight. It is built for speed, therefore with attention to lighten the load. Here are the main differences:*The outer skirts are cut back and the tree is small and lightweight. These saddles come in at around 30 pounds, making the horse work less and move faster.
*Constructed with a relatively flat seat, which provides the rider ease of movement to balance the horse in tight turns around the barrel. *The cantle and the pommel are high so as to give the rider a more secure ride. *The barrel saddle horn is made tall and narrow so the racer can grab on to it for lightening speed sprints to the gate at the end of the race. *The stirrups are cut to a more narrow tread to keep feet tight in. Also, because of possible brushing against or hitting barrels in tight turns, the stirrups are often covered with rawhide, which is more resistant to scrapes than softer leather. *To produce the most balance for the rider, the fenders on this rig are free-swinging for ease of movement so the rider can keep his or hers legs directly under at all times.The essence of the barrel saddle is this. It is a tough built rig to withstand the rigors of speed, tight turns while being as light as possible. This saddle also must keep the rider feeling balanced, safe and secure.
Step by Step Saddle Fit
Many people have asked me how to physically
tack up their horses and what to check to make sure they have a near perfect fit. Here are four points to watch as you are
saddling your horse to make sure everything is as it should be for horse and for the rider.
1. Positioning is everything. You must have the horse standing on level ground to begin with. Place the
saddle on its back up at the withers and then slide it back in to place. This step very important, as some problems are not because of a bad fit, but an improper tacking technique.
Saddles are designed to match a horse's anatomy only when standing in the proper position. If the saddle is placed in front of or behind this position, physical problems begin. The cinch should fall about four inches behind the elbow of the horse. Too far forward placement can cause constriction of movement for the horse and the rider will not be balanced. Likewise, if it's placed to far back on the loins of the horse, the rider is out of position and impairing of movement will occurr. These problems are misinterpreted as a saddle fit issue.
2. You should be able to place 2 or more fingers stacked between the withers and the qullet. No more than 4 fingers with no saddle pad.
3. Shoulder clearance is important. There should be ample room to slip your hand between the fleece lining and the horses shoulder, pad included. Ideally, you should be able to do this with a rider in the saddle.
4. Last, check the skirt fit. The skirt should follow the shape of the horse's back and not extend past its loins. A horse with a short back maybe have the skirt digging in to his loins.
Look at the overall fit from the side. Check the balance. The flat area of the seat should be level and the fork should not be higher than the cantle. When the saddle is cinched, the back shouldn't rock up.
The Secret To Fitting a Saddle
The hot topic these days is all about saddle fit. It is true that the fit can cause lots of problems for the horse and its rider too whether you are going on long leisure rides or actually doing cowboy duties on a live ranch.Realistically, there is no such thing as a perfectly fitting saddle. Your horse will change its confirmation over his life-time and even during the year when exercise and eating habits change. A saddle that can fit perfectly at one year will often result is a poorly fitting saddle later on.If you think about it, a cowboy didn't have the funds to buy a different saddle for each horse he rode. It was important however to make basic changes. He needed a high quality, well -built saddle based on the "physical type" of the horses he rode. A suitable quality saddle with a variety of saddle pads, will allow you to ride many horses of the same "physical type". This saddle should comfortably clear a horse's withers, allow for free movement of the shoulders, be the proper length and shape for its back, and be well balanced to provide good weight distribution. In this way, you will get the proper saddle fit.
If you do ride horses of different breeds or significantly different sizes, then you will need to invest in multiple saddles. Here are some physical characteristics affecting saddle fit:Shape of the Back: An overly narrow or flat back, can be uncomfortable. If the horses back goes "downhill", with the rump higher than the withers, it will cause the saddle to slip forward out of place.Shape of the Withers: Ideally, the withers of the horse are level with, or a little above, the highest point of the rump or croup. Withers higher or lower than this will need special fit.Length of the Back: If your horse has a shorter than average back, the saddle skirt may dig into their backs, loins and kidney's.Shoulders Size: Large-shouldered horses can be constricted by a saddle that doesn't fit, forcing the shoulders against the tree bars. On the other hand, a narrow shoulder will allow the saddle to ride forward onto the shoulder blades which is also non-fitting.
Western Saddle Evolution
One usually thinks of the
western saddle as an American style of rig, but in fact it's origins can be traced back to the Dark Ages. With the Moors invading of Spain in the 700's, came the unique style of horseback riding and tack. Their saddles were designed for battle with longer stirrups to accommodate bulky armor and high cantles for protection and security.
Spanish adapted the Moors saddle was then adapted in to the Spanish War Saddle. This was the same saddle that was brought to the New World. As the need for military gear changed to a need for a growing colonial expansion, the military saddle was again transformed in to a stock saddle. The Spanish Stock Saddle was born. Designed as a tool for the working cowboy and the expansion into the American West.
From then on the stock saddle was influenced by geography and the culture using it. Very distinct styles developed reflecting differences in climate, terrain, culture and stock working styles. The harsh climate and punishing brush of the mesquite of the southwest resulted in saddles built to protect the rider, thus making it big, bulky and plain. California, on the other hand, had a mild climate with lush land where the vaqueros had much more leisure time. Their saddles were not only smaller than the Texans, but evolved into highly decorative pieces.
Through the 1950's, the
western saddle continued to evolve, with many new features to support cattle work and improved construction methods that extended the strength, durability and comfort of the piece.
Saddle making today doesn't focus on the cowboy in the same way. They are now designed for a wide variety of uses and riders such as trail/pleasure, endurance, rodeo contestant, team roper, barrel racer, reiner, cutter. All forms of contests that riders are now envolved with. They are manufacured and shipped all over the world, but they all have a common ancestry they share from the western stock saddle.
Labels: saddle
Wade Tree Saddle
The Wade Tree saddle has a long history in cowboy circles. Tom Dorrance, who is known for being the orignal natural horseman in the late 1930's, admired the saddle of a friend named Clifford Wade, who was also a cowboy. Clifford's father had brought the saddle with him when he moved to Oregon from the east. With a number of modifications by Hamley & Company Saddle Shop came the new version that Dorrance approved. Thus the new saddle was born. Dorrance road this saddle for the rest of his ranching career. Hamely wanted to name the saddle under Dorrances name, but Tom insisted it be called the Wade Tree after his friend who first showed him the new tree, Cifford Wade. The saddle hung around for years until the legendary horseman, Ray Hunt began using it in the 1960's. Why did the Wade Tree become the most popluar saddle then and today? Here are some typical features:* Short and stout horn that is built for dallying. Wood post hor (not metal) that is part of the laminated layers that create the fork. This contruction allows the gullet area to be scooped out without sacrificing strength, and allows the saddle to sit lower on the horse.*Sits exceptionally low and close to the horses back, giving the horse better leverage when holding roped livestock.*The bars of the tree have more surface area in contact with the horse's back than most other trees, giving better weight distribution.*Deep seat designed for comfort for long hours in the saddle.
*Stirrups are hung directly under the rider, putting the rider in a more balanced riding position.*Double rigging*Traditionally flat plate rigging, but in-skirt is becoming very popular*Higher cantleThere are real reasons why this saddle has made its mark. Whichever saddle you pick for your riding needs, keep this one in mind as you look around and try different ones out.
Horse Tack
Tacking up a horse refers to the equipment worn by a horse to allow us to ride them with more ease. There is a wide range of tack and all has to be fitted to the individual horse. Tacking up requires a certain amount of expertise by the rider in order to make any discomfort for you or or animal minimal.
Tack consists of a halter, saddle, saddle pad, stirrup, bridle, girth (for English) / Cinches (for Western), lead ropes, martingale, harnesses, and breastplates. There are basically three kinds of bridles: single, double and hackamore. There are four kinds of girths: webbing, leather, string and nylon. Jumping , dressage , polo , park , racing , English side saddle, Western side saddle, and military saddles are just a few of the many out there.
All equipment has to be cleaned regularly after use. Wipe everything down with a wet sponge and then with a horse tack cleaner that is available on the market. For the most part, horse saddles and tack are made of leather, but with today's technology, many are made with synthetic materials. This synthetic equipment is lighter, less expensive and many times can be thrown in the washing machine for cleaning. Try to store your leather items in dry cool places such as storage containers or even in your home where the humidity is less.
As a young rider progresses you may want to move on to the more expensive saddles and tack. There are lots of used equipment out there for beginning riders that will save you lots of money. A general purpose saddle is best to start with. Doing everything possible to preserve your tack will save you money in the long run. Tack is very expensive to replace, although now that the Internet is selling tack and saddles, you are able to get discounted prices. Just search to get the best price available. Show equipment is usually the highest priced as it has lots of silver with lace and concho's to add more flare to the horse and riders performance.
If you have any questions on Horse supplies or J9 Farm Supplies, please call 936-520-2903. Our home office is located in Waller, Texas, with warehouses located throughout the United States such as Dallas TX, Houston TX, New York NY, Denver CO, Chicago ILL, Seattle WA, Kansas City MO, Miami FL, Raleigh-Durham NC, Washington DC, Los Angeles CA, Fayetteville AR, Philadelphia PA, Phoenix Arizona, San Antonio TX (Texas).
Places To Go Western Riding
Horseback riding vactions are a time of the year that horse lovers look forward to. We will talk about a few vacation spots to trailer your horses to, or if thats not possible, rent the
horse,
saddle and
tack right there. A few suggestions about riding destinations are always appreciated.
Walden Creek Stables in the Smokey Mountains of East Tennessee is just such a place. This riding stable has five hundred acres of property, one-hundred horses and fifty riding cowboys to to lead your way. So you can plan a trip here all hear round complete with saddle and tack. This Stable has horses for every level of horsemanship. Not only do they have several trails to choose from but on special nights there is a Wild West Show with live entertainment.
Now we take you to Wyoming where hopping on a horse all saddled and tacked up is just about second nature. Bitterroot Cattle Roundup is a great place to learn to ride in some of the most beautiful country you'll ever see. The Bitterroot cattle graze on the nearby national forest land from July thru October. This ride is a working trail ride where you help bring the cattle out in October and then round them up again in July. Fifty square miles of high mountains, forests, clearings and river valleys. You return each night to a cozy cabin with a nice bed.
One of the most grand places in the world is in the Grand Canyon, located in Utah and Arizona. Grand Canyon Winter Pastures is one of the few stables that allows you to ride your horse down in to the canyon all saddled up with pack horses. This is a rigorous horse pack trip into some of the canyon's most desolate areas. Often you will need to dismount to lead your horses throught hazardous spots. Checking your
saddle and
tack often is the norm on this trip to make sure all is secure. The groups are small and everyone must be willing to pitch in around camp. The scenery alone is worth the trip.
Now lets move to California to the Redwood Coast Ride stable. This ride goes everywhere from sandy beaches of the Pacific to the majestic redwood forests in northern California. With twenty-five years of experience you are in safe hands with your guide. I would say a beginning rider might want to take a few lessons before trying this ride, although it is certainly more tame than the Grand Canyon adventure above.
Now lets talk about a stable where beginners are what it's all about. At Medicine Hat Trail Ride in Carthage, MO, you can relax and enjoy your first riding experiences. You will learn how to groom and prep a horse for riding to putting on all the tack, then on to the trail for an hour long lesson that is relaxing and educational. You will also learn all the little signs of reading a horses disposition with the position of his ears and a swish of his tail. Great for kids and adults alike.
